That sir is "The Sheet" as they say around here. exactly what I was looking for. I think I am gonna duplicate what he did exactly. Seems straight forward and simple. Which is how I like to approach problems. Some people make it too complicated. Thank you!

 

In any case you will need to remove the head. Then you should check for damage to the piston. The valve took a pretty good hit to break the rocker and bend the pushrod. A good machine shop can evaluate the head.

Interesting character. Love the teeth.

 

Head and piston and block all look fine. not even the slightest mark. Only issue is valve guide to exhaust mas moved. that valves pushrod was bent. The one that cracked is still a mystery to me. Guide looks good even push rod looks good except it is trapped in a split rocker. Head is pulled off. Gonna go talk to machine shop. Or Might even do exactly what the youtube link shows.

 

I suspect when the valve guide worked out it prevented the valve from fully opening jamming the rod and rocker. If no other damage is evident, I would get necessary parts and try the utube repair.

 

But... the cracked/trapped rocker is on the intake. The guide issue is on the exhaust. If I can get my head around that. I think I will do the youtube repair.

 

I missed that. Your right. What is up with that.

 

I'm not sure. I'm thinking that when the exhaust got jammed up it stalled engine and rammed the intake push rood. that rocker HAD to have some defect for that to occur. There aren't any marks on it at all, just driven thru the rocker.

 

The intake was stressed when the exhaust valve quit working. I see Briggs often enough that bend the intake pushrod when this happens. On an Intek, the intake pushrod is aluminum so it bends easily. Your Kawasaki, not so easily.

 

Hope it works out for you. That would be a bargain.

 

A new head is $156 on amazon, and cheaper on eBay - just something to consider.

 

I would only buy OEM from JD or Kawasaki. Anything new on Amazon or Ebay is guaranteed to be a Chinese rip off even if they claim its OEM. Ebay is only good for buying used parts. There is a reason people call them Scamazon and Fleabay. Many people get ripped off thinking they got a "good deal" on a new part then get mad and sell the tractor or whatever they are trying to fix because the new part is made in China garbage and they refuse to acknowledge the new Ebay or Amazon part is worse than the old part they are replacing.

 

Ok, so I basically followed the steps of the video shared on here. Head all ready to assemble and put on tractor. What I did was set guide height to as close to specs as I could. The, I drilled thru head from outside towards guide. Marking the guide with the drilling. Just a mark, mind you. Then removed guide from head. Tapped 10-24 threads in head. used mini zip wheel to mark guide. Applied green loctite (bearing mount) to guide then set guide into head at correct depth. installed set screw with more green loctite and tightened just by fingers so as not to deform the guide. cleaned up everything an set next to heater to cure for a couple days. Gonna install it and all else later this week. Adjust the valve cearance and run that sumbitch!. Here's a few pictures during the process for those who want to know. LOL. View attachment 867522 View attachment 867522 View attachment 867523 View attachment 867524 View attachment 867525 View attachment 867526 View attachment 867527
View attachment 867522 View attachment 867523 View attachment 867524 View attachment 867525 View attachment 867526 View attachment 867527

 

 

That should work. Well done.

 

I'll let you all know how it turned out running wise in a few days. Letting it cure out rt now, then the process of installing and adjusting will take place. After that..... It'll go or blow! Because I'm gonna give it a nice easy warm up. then work it a wee bit. change oil and filter, then she gonna work- hard. It's either a success or back to the drawing board. But I have great confidence this will work. Heck, I think the loctite alone would hold it.

 

Definitely not overgeneralized or off topic. I see a lot of this stuff and work on a lot of it. Most of the time aftermarket parts cause more problems than they fix. This guy is trying to fix this garden tractor so I am giving my advise to stay away from aftermarket parts that were recommended.

 

This guy is trying to fix this garden tractor so I am giving my advise to stay away from aftermarket parts that were recommended.

Now you're insinuating that I recommended aftermarket parts??? That's just nonsense.
The price given was/is for a new genuine Kawasaki part - sold by a Kawasaki dealer via Amazon.

30 seconds of research starting on Amazon would have told you that. Plenty of legit Kawasaki and JD dealers use Amazon and eBay to extend their reach.

Want to discuss the dangers of buying from Amazon and/or eBay? Started a new thread - happy to chime in on best practices to avoid getting stung.

Want to discuss why using cheap aftermarket parts is bad? Start a new thread, or read some of my previous posts, including some directed to you, against using cheap aftermarket components. I'll reiterate that I consistently recommend OEM parts, not cheap unknowns.

Can we get back to the OP's work now? Especially since he appears to be 90% through the fix and doing a great job.

 

Except that the emphasis of my post is: I am not buying parts. Instead I am doing my best to repair the factory parts. The cheap online parts have their place, just not with me in this. as well- I ain't paying $300 for a head that can be fixed. Some of us older guys like the challenge of seeing what we can do with our minds and hands. I've spent the bulk of my professional life repairing heavy equipment in the field(as a trouble shooter). You'd be surprised what you can do with some wire, bolts & nuts, scrap parts and imagination.

 

You forgot about duct tape (especially the "structural" variety) 😉

 

I thought that was an assumed required material for any one with 3 or more brain cells! LOL