That is going to be quite a setup:thumbup1gif::thumbup1gif:
You could probably use a ballast box, and an iMatch. The air ride seat is nice too. Maybe the JD grapple would be better? DrFeelgood hates his grapple because the top tines are too far apart, he said he drops allot of things.
You decided on the diverter setup as opposed to the rear SCV's? I'm curious as to your reasoning.

If you do the "build your own" quote, then figure on around 15 perent discount, you should be close. Between 12 and 20 percent is where most people are reporting. I personally got 17.5 percent off. There will be between 1 and 2 thousand dollars for freight and setup.

 

I agree with Arlen. Get at least the ballast box. An iMatch hitch would also be a great time-saver if you're willing to invest the time to convert all your current implements to the standard.

Congrats! The fun is about to begin!:yahoo:

 

This is a nice setup. I too recommend adding the ballast box. The 3720 needs the rear weight if you are doing any meaningful lifting with the loader. I would also recommend the mid-pto if you can afford it. Just curious why you would go with a 61" bucket instead of the 73"?

 

That is going to be quite a setup:thumbup1gif::thumbup1gif:
You could probably use a ballast box, and an iMatch. The air ride seat is nice too. Maybe the JD grapple would be better? DrFeelgood hates his grapple because the top tines are too far apart, he said he drops allot of things.
You decided on the diverter setup as opposed to the rear SCV's? I'm curious as to your reasoning.

If you do the "build your own" quote, then figure on around 15 perent discount, you should be close. Between 12 and 20 percent is where most people are reporting. I personally got 17.5 percent off. There will be between 1 and 2 thousand dollars for freight and setup.

That’s 3 votes for a ballast box. I figured the wheel weights would do the job. That’s what I have on my Oliver (wheel weights). The FEL stalls before I lift the rear wheels. I’m sure the JD has more lifting capacity. I just want to keep the 3PH open for skidding. I have a HF quick hitch that I use as a poor man’s logging arch including its intended use. I use the loader to break logs loose or lift to put on a choker chain then turn around lift the chained log with the 3PH “logging arch” to plant the rear wheels and pull. That’s the reasoning for originally dismissing the ballast box. I’ll have to look into this option further or even adding more wheel weight.

I originally wanted the 73” HD bucket. But, after seeing pictures and seeing the 61” bucket on a 3320 at the dealer, I think the narrower width will suit me better and still cover my tracks. I only have a 3’ wide trip bucket FEL now. I’m thinking; stronger bucket, less weight, operates in tighter spaces, less likely to overload, and costs less. I originally considered a 2720 to replace my Oliver 550 solely based on size. My thinking in this case is, less is more.

I sent DrFeelgood a PM and posted in the “show me your grapple” thread. Elwood seems to like his JD/Frontier AV20H. The AV20H sure looks a lot like the AGGR60. Has he (DrFeelgood) had any other complaints about his Dirt Dog?

Arlen, you are right on about the 4th and 5th SCV’s being a lot less than the electric divert valve. That’s $852.50 vs $1537.80 list. But, even with the $685.30 additional cost, I’m still leaning toward the electric divert valve. I think it will be a handier set up. It will be a lot more intuitive running the stump grinder’s horizontal and vertical movement cylinders with the joy stick on the seat or standing next to it with fewer mistakes as to which valve does what. You have made this a hard decision, at least price wise. Which brings me to the bottom line…

The list price for everything listed above comes out to be $37,887.57. Using your numbers and with worst case scenario that would be 12% plus $2000.00 freight and setup and comes out to be $35,341.06. I currently have a quote for $35,400.00. That sounded a little high to me and after reading your post I’m guessing I’m right. That is why I’m checking with a completely different dealer tomorrow.We'll see how this goes.

I appreciate all of your input. Keep it coming there is still time to talk me out of it. OK, probably not. Or some sense into me. OK, probably not that either.

 

Talk you out of it??? I'm afraid you came to the wrong forum for that:laugh:
I was getting ready to suggest a 4520 or a 4720:mocking:

I see your point on the diverter.
As far as the ballast goes, the wheel weights and tire loading keep the rear end on the ground, and stabilize things, but don't do anything to unload the front axle. You have to get weight behind the rear axle for that. It is more of an issue these days, since these little tractors have a pretty impressive lift capability, but are pretty light themselves. I started with 220 pounds total wheel weight and maybe 300 pounds of rear ballast. I took it easy on lifting, but I didn't feel "right". 2 weeks later I added another 220 pounds wheel weight, and the machine felt way better. Finally I put 1000 pound of steel in my ballast box, and what a difference that made:thumbup1gif:
For you, maybe 6 or 7 hundred pounds on the 3 point would be right.

I think your price is close... They will likely budge a little more.

 

Added Ballast Box to List of Options

OK, you guys talked me into it. I’m definitely adding the ballast box to my options. I went back and read the thread “What is rear ballast and why do you need it?” in the attachments forum.

 

OK, you guys talked me into it. I’m definitely adding the ballast box to my options. I went back and read the thread “What is rear ballast and why do you need it?” in the attachments forum.

Good choice, one you wont regret. Proper ballast really needs to be behing the rear axle to be effective. Get the iMatch as well...

 

Sounds like I use my tractor much the same way. I have 40 acres and a family cabin with 50 acres down road and I use the tractor for a little brush hogging on my trails, snow removal, firewood collection, and I have a splitter attached to split the wood. A small garden and some food plots are in the mix too. I would consider the 73" bucket. I have this on my 3320 and I get around in the woods and on my trails very well. What I like about it is as I go through the woods or if I am clearing brush, the wider bucket keeps stuff from hitting me or the sides of my tractor. Since I have a cab, this helps to keep the glass on my doors from getting scratched up by brush and branches. The little extra bucket size is nice for moving dirt too.

You may think about pallet forks. I sure use mine alot. They work well for picking up brush piles. I'm going to add a thumb to it so I can pick up brush piles easier. Your grapple may do enough of what you need to avoid getting pallet forks. I'll tell you, I hardly lift anything. I use those forks alot.

As far as rear weight look into the rim guard fluid. It's basically beat juice. It adds a fair amount of weight to the tractor. I noticed a big difference when I did this. The Rim Guard will not freeze or rot out your rims like some of the other types did years ago.

 

You may think about pallet forks.
.

Amen on the pallet forks:good2:

 

I too would modify your purchase. I had a 3320 and ended up with 4" axle extensions on the back for stability for loader work. It made a huge difference. I loved that tractor but when I bough it I knew it was only a stepping stone until I upgraded. Currently I have a 4520.

I actually think you should move to the 4320. Yes 43 not 45. I don't think any of the jobs you do require the extra hp of the 4520. You are not running A/C and the loader hydraulics do not need more hp. In this case I don't think you need to get sucked into the more hp is better trap l Ike the rest of us:tongue:

In the mean time. The slightly larger chassis is almost as maneuverable and is more stable and the loader is far more capable.

If it can fall in your budget, do it.

Get the ballast box......

 

And don't forget the 4x20's are all iron on the transmission and rear end housing AND have planetary final drives:thumbup1gif:

 

On hold at the moment

I’m getting the feeling that no matter how big of a tractor I say I’m going to get, you guys are going to say I should go bigger. LOL

I have said to myself more often about my Oliver 550 “I wish this tractor was a little bit smaller so I could fit in there” rather than saying “I wish this tractor was a little bit bigger and had more horse power”. Just about the only times I hear the Oliver labor is when cutting tall grass of about a foot or more and sometimes while grinding large Oak stumps. I’m sure it’s no longer producing its rated 41.39hp gross or its rated 35.3hp draw bar. I should notice a power increase with the 3720 or at the very least no loss of power. Because of that, I can’t justify spending more money on horse power and a physically larger tractor. The biggest drawback to the Oliver is its lack of hydraulics. It only has one remote valve rated at 5.25gpm and 1500psi. I run everything on that now through a manual diverter valve that I installed and a bungee cord on the remote valve for power beyond. The 3720’s additional hydraulics and 300CX loader are going to be a huge step up from where I’m at now with a trip bucket. Unless the 3720’s power is overrated that should also be a step up, even if it’s just a small step up.

Then again, I’m sure if I had a larger tractor with more horse power I would probably be saying “How did I ever live without it?” But, there are budget limits. LOL

I’m now caught up in the model year options changing for ordering a new tractor. I’m not sure if I should by the tractor on the lot and have the options I want added to it or wait for the options to be sorted out on the 2013 models and order it. I’m being told I can only get the options I want on a 2013 from the factory for an additional $400.00, but I would also get a mid PTO, air ride seat, and additional rear remote for that $400.00 dollar increase. The hydraulic options are holding me up right now. I’m not sure if the 2013 hydraulic options are the same as the 2012. So, I’m trying to decide which way I should go. Just when I was ready to buy, I’m not happy!

 

I’m now caught up in the model year options changing for ordering a new tractor. I’m not sure if I should by the tractor on the lot and have the options I want added to it or wait for the options to be sorted out on the 2013 models and order it. I’m being told I can only get the options I want on a 2013 from the factory for an additional $400.00, but I would also get a mid PTO, air ride seat, and additional rear remote for that $400.00 dollar increase. The hydraulic options are holding me up right now. I’m not sure if the 2013 hydraulic options are the same as the 2012. So, I’m trying to decide which way I should go. Just when I was ready to buy, I’m not happy!

If I understand you correctly, you can get the mid PTO, the air ride seat, and the 3rd electro hyd SCV for another 400 bucks? If that's right... that's a "steal":thumbup1gif:

The rest of the options are usually dealer installed.

Have you considered a 5085M?

Just kidding:laugh:

 

Pretty much what others have stated.

One thing mentioned is going with the 4320 vs 4520... you would not get the eThrottle without moving to the 4520. That's one feature I really would love for loader work which is what I do most of the time.

There is no tractor big enough, I can attest to that. It's all a matter of how much money you have, and how fast you want to get your work done. I could do the same work with a 1026r with my 110 or 5410, it just might take me 10 times longer to do it. Having owned a 3x20 sized tractor, and now a 4x20 equivalent, I'm confident you can do everything listed with a 3720.

 

Well said Martian. You guys seem to be comparing the 3720 to other John Deere tractors. I’m comparing the 3720 to the Oliver 550 that I have. I think the 3720 will get the job done faster even with just a minor increase in rated power because of the reasons I mentioned above and the hydrostatic transmission compared to a 2 range manual shift transmission in the Oliver 550. Plus I’m sure the 3720 will be easier to operate, and be far more comfortable. Even getting on and off of the 3720 is easier than the 550.

 

Arlen,

You need to upgrade the mini donkeys for more power:laugh: my ex kept the mini and I ended up with a Mammoth - she's like a turbo mini :lol:

She keeps my drafts in line and is as sweet as can be.

Charley

 

You read my mind, 56FordGuy. I was planning on keeping it at least for a while and use it as a backup. At least long enough to make sure the 3720 can do everything the 550 can. I never seem to get rid of anything anyway. I’ve put a lot of work into it over the years. Maybe I’ll restore it. I like that old tractor and I’m not in a hurry to get rid of it. Originally I thought about selling both my 550 and my JD 318 GT to help offset the cost of a new tractor. The new tractor was supose to replace both.The 318 is probably worth close to what the 550 is worth. LOL So, I might as well keep both. I need help.

 

You can always use it to rake hay, or run a PTO generator, or pull wagons, or run augers, or pull a drag section, or...well you get the idea.

 

I agree, I would keep the 550 as well. You never know you may need the 550 to pull the 3x20 out of a situation where it is truly stuck. I'm sure the 550 could do that and more too as has already been suggested. I believe I would be correct in saying that we cannot wait to see what your new tractor looks like under the lights!

 

I pulled the trigger!

The dealer finally got everything straightened out. I signed the papers for a new 3720 today. It is supposed to be delivered April 15th. In addition to the options listed on my first post of this thread it will also have a mid PTO, air ride seat, and ballast box. As Tom Petty sings “The waiting is the hardest part”.

I also decided on a Wallenstein BX62S-GRN Wood Chipper and picked that up today as well. Next a grapple, and then a… I need help.

 

Next a grapple, and then a… I need help.

Oh no worries my friend, we can indeed help...you spend more that is:lol::laugh:

 

Congrats!

Got any pictures of the old Oil All Over? :laugh: I like them, almost bought a super 55 before the 5320.

 

My Oil All Over 550





That sure describes it. Here are a couple of pictures of it (with oil all over it). One has the new Wallenstein BX62 I bought yesterday assembled and attached to it. I wanted to try it out, but I’m feeling a little under the weather. I must be sick of spending money. LOL

 

That's a cool ol' tractor. Thanks for sharing with us! :drinks:

 

Yep, I'd sure be inclined to keep that one. May take the loader off after you get the new JD home, though. You probably wont want to use it anymore, those trip buckets are a bit more hassle than the full hydraulic ones. :laugh:

 

Grapple on the way

Pulled the trigger on a Dirt Dog AGGR60 Ag Grapple today in green of course. I should be getting it in a week or so. Will post pictures in “Show me your grapple”.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I497 using Tapatalk 2

Im a dealer in Indiana. We ship all over the country. Let me know if youd like a quote

 

Slinger: Any 2720's left????

No message

 

No message

I think you'd be better off sending him a PM or even better, call Mutton's directly.:good2: He may not see this post for a while.

 

Thanks Diesel

I thought about doing that but then I wondered if there were others interested as well. Mutton is still showing the 2720 on Tractorhouse. I was ready to buy one last Fall and then JD let it be known that the 2R series was on the way. Now, I am not so sure that the 2R is the right way to go. Maybe I'm just getting more and more impatient too.

 

Coming Soon

I haven’t called the dealer yet, but my 3720 tractor is supposed to be in Monday April 15. I want to gather up maintenance items like:
Hydraulic oil
Engine oil
Air filter
Oil filter
Hydraulic filter
Fuel filter
Belt(s)?
Hoses?
Touch up paint
Coolant
I may wait a while on the belts and hoses. Can you guys think of anything else I should get right away for my new tractor? What else is a good idea to keep on hand?

 

I haven’t called the dealer yet, but my 3720 tractor is supposed to be in Monday April 15. I want to gather up maintenance items like:
Hydraulic oil
Engine oil
Air filter
Oil filter
Hydraulic filter
Fuel filter
Belt(s)?
Hoses?
Touch up paint
I may wait a while on the belts and hoses. Can you guys think of anything else I should get right away for my new tractor? What else is a good idea to keep on hand?

1)JD Coolguard premixed coolant. I found that after mine was done "burping" after several workouts, I had to add a pint or two. I like the premix for those applications.
2) Fuel treatment. Dieselshadow sells Optilube, which I will probably start using, but I've been getting the John Deere brand stuff.

That's a smart move on the touch up paint.
Is your dealer pretty close by? Do they have a pretty good stock? I'm lucky that way...5 miles, and a giant inventory.

 

How close you live to your dealer and whether or not you want to buy parts online factors in to your list. For me, I stock some paint, oils, and some filters. Everything else I can get pretty quickly if needed as my dealer isn't that far away.

 

Coolant added

Thanks I forgot about coolant. I have some, but I'll use the JD stuff to keep it toped off so I'm not mixing fluids. I plan to buy all JD right now. After I change fluids I'll look into lower cost alternatives.

I'm about 10 miles from my dealer.

Where can I buy JD parts on line?

 

Where can I buy JD parts on line?

We have some Site Supporting Vendors here, Green Farm Parts, and Keeping it Green.

 

Im a dealer. Do you mind if ai shoot you a quote? What is your zip code

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I497 using Tapatalk 2

 

What does the factory use?

I’m looking to buy fluids for my new 3720 (still awaiting delivery) and don’t know what to get. What does the tractor come with from the factory? I want to use what they use to keep things topped off until at least the first fluid change.

Engine oil Plus-50, Plus-50 II 15W40?
Hydraulic fluid Low viscosity Hy-gard?
Coolant Premix Cool-gard, Cool-gard II, Cool-gard PG?
Grease SD Polyurea, HD Lithium Complex?

I’m confused. What does the factory use? Where can I find that information?

 

I’m looking to buy fluids for my new 3720 (still awaiting delivery) and don’t know what to get. What does the tractor come with from the factory? I want to use what they use to keep things topped off until at least the first fluid change.

Engine oil Plus-50, Plus-50 II 15W40?
Hydraulic fluid Low viscosity Hy-gard?
Coolant Premix Cool-gard, Cool-gard II, Cool-gard PG?
Grease SD Polyurea, HD Lithium Complex?

I’m confused. What does the factory use? Where can I find that information?

1) From the factory, for engine oil, it will be John Deere break in oil. My 4720 used a half quart or so during the first 150 hours. I just topped it off with Plus 50 15W-40.
I put amzoil synthetic 5-40 in when I changed at 175 hours, I will put in JD synthetic 0-40 in next time around.
2) Low Vis Hy-guard is what you should be using for hydraulic fluid.
3) Premix Cool-Guard is probably what you want...the PG is Propelyne Glycol (biodegradable and less toxic to animals)
4) The polyurea grease is the prefered grease.

I did have to top off all of the fluids that you mentioned within about 10 hours of run time...so it's good that you will have them on hand.
What do you have planned for break in activities? I was thinking the other day...pulling out little trees is the perfect break in job. You rev the engine a little, load it down for a few seconds, then idle back, then it gets to rest while your helper hooks on to another tree.