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Engine fail, advice needed

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434 views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  xcopterdoc  
#1 ·
2011 John Deer D110
Engine BBSXS.5002VV
Headed 31P677
Briggs 19.5HP single cylinder:
I had my mower idling, and heard a pound clanking noise, and the engine appears to have seized up. I took the top end off, and metal shavings in the cylinder, and I can’t seem to turn the blower to get the piston to budge by hand. I can clearly see the head gasket was bad, which explains the light oil burning I would see. But I’m not a mechanic, I am fairly savvy and learn quickly, but thinking of taking this thing into our local mower mechanic rather than going any further. (Pictures attached)
Any thoughts or suggestions of what could have went wrong here would be helpful. Thank you in advanced!
 

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#2 · (Edited)
Was it full of oil?
How many hours if there's an hour meter?
Don't know much about that series mower/engine...maybe siezed rod with low oil or broken cam valve train issue...
Pto clutch?
Let someone else chime in....
 
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#5 ·
Was it full of oil?
How many hours if there's an hour meter?
Don't know much about that series mower/engine...maybe siezed rod with low oil or broken cam valve train issue...
Pto clutch?
Let someone else chime in....
I was keeping oil topped off, since I knew it was burning a little, some came out when I took the head off, but there’s definitely metal of some kind right at the piston (see picture) but it was like dried up oil almost too, oh and only like 230 hours, and head gasket was replaced once already
 
#3 ·
I’m not sure how many hours on it but it may have reached end of life. Nothing wrong with Briggs engines but I think of them as throw away engine if they have major problems. I’d repower it with a predator from Harbor Freight assuming it’s in otherwise good shape.
 
#9 ·
Take the belt off of the engine pulleys, then see if you can turn the engine over. If it will not turn over, then start removing engine.

Make sure before before removing the engine, that the starter gear is not bound up in the flywheel gear.

As for that black stuff, that feel like metal is coke/carbon build up from burning oil.

My guess is the balance shaft broke inside the engine. In turn, locking the engine up.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I just watched this dude tear into one and rebuild the whole thing:

I don’t think I want to put this much time and money into it, and probably end up putting it back together wrong lol…

Is there any specific bolt pattern I’d need to look for? Or do most vertical drive motors line up?
on my old mower, I did pull the whole motor and took it up to repair shop for them to fix it, and brought it back and reinstalled it…. That’s wha I was going to do here. But if I can get a new one for a few hundred bucks, it may make more sense to do that..
 
#11 ·
I just watched this dude tear into one and rebuild the whole thing:

I don’t think I want to put this much time and money into it, and probably end up putting it back together wrong lol…

Is there any specific bolt pattern I’d need to look for? Or do most vertical drive motors line up?
on my old motor, I did pull the whole motor and took it up to repair shop for them to fix it, and brought it back and reinstalled it…. That’s wha I was going to do here. But if I can get a new one for a few hundred bucks, it may make more sense to do that..
Well for a few hundred bucks, you won't come close to buying a new briggs & Stratton.

You need to at least measure the engine mounting bolt spacing.

Do you got a Pic of the complete engine in the tractor. Or a pic of the engine?

Predator type repower is probably gonna cost $400-$600 dollars.